Iyo ubonye abiruka bambaye imyenda ya siporo yoroheje, ihumeka muri Marato ya New York cyangwa ugahita witegereza abakunzi ba yoga mumaguru yumye vuba muri siporo ya Berlin, ntushobora kubimenya - ibyinshi mubintu byihuta cyane kumasuka yimyenda yimikino yimikino yabanyaburayi nabanyamerika babikesha kubaho "umwenda winyenyeri": polyester yongeye gukoreshwa.
Ni ukubera iki iyi myenda isa nkibisanzwe yagaragaye mu bikoresho bitagira ingano mu myaka yashize, ihinduka “ugomba-kugira” ibicuruzwa byamamaye nka Nike, Adidas, na Lululemon? Impamvu eshatu zingenzi ziri inyuma yizamuka ryayo, buriwese ihuza neza n "ibikenewe byihutirwa" kumasoko yuburayi na Amerika.
1. Ibyangombwa byangiza ibidukikije: Gukubita "Kurokoka Umurongo Utukura" kubirango byiburengerazuba
Ku masoko y’iburayi n’Amerika, "kuramba" ntibikiri ibicuruzwa byo kwamamaza ahubwo ni "ikintu gikomeye" kugirango ibicuruzwa bikomeze kuba ingirakamaro.
Polyester yongeye gukoreshwa yerekana "impinduramatwara y’ibidukikije" ku nganda gakondo z’imyenda: ikoresha amacupa ya pulasitike y’imyanda hamwe n’ibisigazwa by’inganda nkibikoresho fatizo, bihinduka fibre binyuze mu gutunganya, gushonga, no kuzunguruka. Ibarurishamibare ryerekana ko ikintu kimwe cy’imyenda ya siporo ya polyester cyongeye gukoreshwa gishobora kongera gukoresha amacupa ya plastike 6-8 ugereranije, kugabanya imyuka ya karuboni hafi 30% naho gukoresha amazi 50%.
Ibi bikemura mu buryo butaziguye ibyifuzo bibiri byingenzi ku masoko yuburengerazuba:
Igitutu cya Politiki:Amabwiriza nka gahunda y’ubumwe bw’ibihugu by’Uburayi (CBAM) hamwe n’ingamba z’imyenda yo muri Amerika bisaba mu buryo bweruye iminyururu kugira ngo igabanye ikirere. Gukoresha ibikoresho bitunganijwe byahindutse "shortcut" kubirango byubahirize.
Abaguzi basaba:Mu bakunda siporo yo mu Burengerazuba, 72% by'ababajijwe bavuga ko “bafite ubushake bwo kwishyura amafaranga y’imyenda yangiza ibidukikije” (Raporo y’imikoreshereze y’imikino 2024). Kubirango, gukoresha polyester yongeye gukoreshwa byatsindiye kumenyekana mumashyirahamwe yibidukikije kandi byumvikana nabaguzi.
Fata urukurikirane rwa "Nziza nziza" ya Patagonia, yanditseho "100% polyester yongeye gukoreshwa." Ndetse hamwe nigiciro cya 20% kiri hejuru yuburyo busanzwe, iracyagurishwa cyane - ibirango byangiza ibidukikije byahindutse "traffic magnet" kubirango byimyenda yimikino yo muburengerazuba.
2. Imikorere isumba iyindi: "All-Rounder" kumikino ngororamubiri
Ibidukikije byangiza ibidukikije byonyine ntibihagije; imikorere-"umurimo wibanze" wimyenda yimikino-niyo ituma ibirango bigaruka. Polyester yongeye gukoreshwa ifata ibyayo kurwanya polyester gakondo, ndetse ikanayirenza mubice byingenzi:
Ubushuhe-Gukuramo & Kuma-Kuma:Imiterere yihariye ya fibre ikuramo ibyuya byihuse kuruhu, bigatuma abambara buma mugihe cyibikorwa byinshi cyane nka marato cyangwa imyitozo ya HIIT.
Kuramba & Wrinkle-Kurwanya:Polyester yongeye gukoreshwa ifite imiterere ihamye ya molekile, igumana imiterere yayo na nyuma yo kurambura no gukaraba inshuro nyinshi - gukemura ikibazo rusange cyimyenda ya siporo gakondo "gutakaza ishusho nyuma yo gukaraba."
Umucyo woroshye & Elastike:40% yoroshye kurusha ipamba, hamwe nigipimo cyo gukira hejuru ya 95%, bigabanya kugabanya umuvuduko mugihe uhuza ningendo nini nka yoga cyangwa imbyino.
Ikirenze ibyo, hamwe niterambere ryikoranabuhanga, polyester yongeye gukoreshwa irashobora "gutondekanya imikorere": kongeramo imiti igabanya ubukana itera "imyenda idashobora kunuka," mugihe tekinoroji yo gukingira UV ituma "imyenda irinda izuba hanze." Iyi combo "yangiza ibidukikije + ihindagurika" ituma iba "inenge" yo gukoresha siporo.
3
Ibirango by'imikino yo mu burengerazuba birasaba amasoko akomeye: gutanga isoko no kugenzura ibiciro. Kongera gukoreshwa na polyester byihuta byashyigikiwe numuyoboro uhagaze neza.
Uyu munsi, umusaruro wa polyester wongeye gukoreshwa - kuva gutunganya ibintu no kuzunguruka kugeza kurangi - ukurikiza inzira zisanzwe:
Ubushobozi bwizewe:Ubushinwa, igihugu kinini ku isi gikora polyester ikoreshwa neza, gifite umusaruro urenga toni miliyoni 5, ibyo bikaba bikenerwa kuva ku bicuruzwa bito bito bito ku bicuruzwa bito kugeza ku miriyoni igizwe n'abayobozi b'inganda.
Igiciro gishobora kugenzurwa:Bitewe nubuhanga bugezweho bwo gutunganya ibicuruzwa, polyester yongeye gukoreshwa ubu igura 5% -10% gusa ugereranije na polyester gakondo-nyamara itanga "progaramu irambye" yibirango.
Kubahiriza gukomeye:Polyester yongeye gukoreshwa yemejwe na Global Recycled Standard (GRS) itanga ibikoresho byibanze byuzuye, byoroshye kugenzurwa na gasutamo no kugenzura ibicuruzwa kumasoko yuburengerazuba.
Niyo mpamvu Puma yatangaje mu 2023 ko "ibicuruzwa byose bizakoresha polyester ikoreshwa neza" - urwego rukuze rutanga isoko rwahinduye "impinduka zirambye" kuva mumagambo ahinduka ingamba zifatika zubucuruzi.
Kurenza "Icyerekezo" - Ni Kazoza
Imiterere ya polyester yongeye gukundwa cyane mubirango by'imikino ya siporo yo mu Burengerazuba bituruka ku guhuza neza “imigendekere y'ibidukikije, ibikenerwa mu mikorere, ndetse n'inkunga itangwa.” Kubirango, ntabwo ari uguhitamo imyenda gusa ahubwo "igikoresho" cyo guhatanira isoko no kugera ku buryo burambye.
Uko ikoranabuhanga rigenda ritera imbere, polyester ikoreshwa neza izagenda ihinduka "yoroshye, ihumeka neza, na karuboni yo hasi." Ku masosiyete y’ubucuruzi y’ububanyi n’amahanga y’imyenda, gufata iyi myenda bisobanura gufata “aho winjirira” ku isoko ry’imyenda y’imikino yo mu Burayi n’Abanyamerika - nyuma ya byose, mu gihe aho ibidukikije byangiza ibidukikije ndetse n’imikorere bijyana, imyenda nini irivugira.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Kanama-11-2025