Ka Moolelo o Kesi: Ka lole makamae i hoohuoi i na aupuni

Shitouchenli

Luna kuai

ʻO mākou kahi hui kūʻai lole hili ʻia me ka manaʻo nui i ka hāʻawi ʻana i kā mākou mea kūʻai aku i nā ʻano lole lole. ʻO kā mākou kūlana kūʻokoʻa ma ke ʻano he kumu kumu e hiki ai iā mākou ke hoʻohui pono i nā mea maka, ka hana ʻana, a me ke kala, e hāʻawi iā mākou i ka hoʻokūkū hoʻokūkū ma ke ʻano o ke kumu kūʻai a me ka maikaʻi.
Ma ke ʻano he hoa hilinaʻi i ka ʻoihana textile, haʻaheo mākou i ko mākou hiki ke hāʻawi i nā lole kiʻekiʻe ma nā kumukūʻai hoʻokūkū. ʻO kā mākou kūpaʻa i ka maikaʻi a me ka ʻoluʻolu o ka mea kūʻai aku ua hoʻonoho iā mākou ma ke ʻano he mea kūʻai hilinaʻi a kaulana i ka mākeke.

1. He "Ula Laa" i kona kaumaha i ke gula
Ma ke Alanui Silika, ʻaʻole nā mea ʻala a i ʻole nā pōhaku makamae ka ukana makamae i lawe ʻia e nā kaʻa kamelo—he lole kupaianaha ia i kapa ʻia ʻo “Kesi” (缂丝). Ua hoʻopaʻa ʻia ka Xuanhe Painting Catalog a ka moʻokūʻauhau ʻĀkau: “Ua like ka waiwai o Kesi me nā momi a me ka jade.” ʻO kahi pahu hoʻokahi o ka papa kiʻekiʻe ʻo Kesi i kūpono i kona kaumaha i ke gula!
Pehea ka nani loa?
• Moʻokūʻauhau Tang: I ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻia ʻana o Chancellor Yuan Zai, ua hopu ʻia he 80 mau pale Kesi mai kāna waiwai wale nō.
• Moʻokūʻauhau Yuan: Hiki i nā mea kālepa Peresia ke kūʻai aku i ʻekolu mau pahu Kesi no kahi hale ma Changʻan.
• Qing Dynasty: Hoʻokahi ʻaʻahu deragona Kesi no ka Emepera Qianlong e koi ana i 12 mau mea hana hana no ʻekolu makahiki.
2. ʻO ka ʻenehana "Broken Weft" makahiki he tausani
Loaʻa ka waiwai kilokilo o Kesi mai kāna ʻano ulana "holy grail":
Warp & Weft Magic: Me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ke ʻano hana "tongjing duanwei", ua ulana pakahi ʻia kēlā me kēia milo weft kala, e hana ana i nā ʻano like ma nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua.
ʻO ka hana hoʻoikaika: Hiki i ka mea ulana akamai ke hana i ka 3-5 knm wale nō i kēlā me kēia lā - hoʻokahi ʻaʻahu hoʻokahi mau makahiki.
Manawa Mau loa: ʻO nā kāʻei ʻo Tang Dynasty Kesi i ʻike ʻia ma Xinjiang e waiho ʻia me ka nani ma hope o 1,300 mau makahiki.
Ua kāhāhā ʻo Marco Polo i kāna huakaʻi: “Hoʻohana ka poʻe Kina i kahi ulana pohihihi e hoʻomākaukau ai nā manu e lele mai ke kilika."

3. ʻO ke kālepa "Gula palupalu" ma ke ala silika
Hoʻopaʻa nā manuscript Dunhuang i nā ala kalepa ʻo Kesi:
Hikina: Nā mea hana lima o Suzhou → ʻAha Imperial (Changʻan) → Aupuni Khotan (Xinjiang)
Ma ke komohana: ʻO nā mea kālepa Sogdian → Samarkand → aliʻi Peresia → Byzantine Empire
Nā Manawa Kaʻao i ka mōʻaukala:
• 642 AD: Ua hāʻawi ʻo Emperor Taizong o Tang i kahi "ʻaʻahu Kesi wili gula" i ke Aliʻi o Gaochang ma ke ʻano he hōʻailona diplomatic.
• Ua mahalo ʻia ʻo Dunhuang Kesi Diamond Sutra o ka Hale Hōʻikeʻike Pelekane ʻo "ka lole lole nui loa o ka Middle Ages."

4. ʻO ka manaʻo nui o kēia wā Luxury me Kesi
Manaʻo ʻo Kesi ka mōʻaukala? Ke ʻimi nei nā ʻoihana kiʻekiʻe i kāna hoʻoilina:
Hermès: He 2023 Kesi silk scarf i kūʻai ʻia ma mua o $28,000.
Dior: ʻO ke kapa haute couture a Maria Grazia Chiuri, i ulana ʻia me Suzhou Kesi, he 1,800 hola.
Art Collabs: ʻO ka Hale Hōʻikeʻike o ka Hale Hōʻikeʻike × Cartier's Kesi watch dials—i kaupalena ʻia i 8 mau ʻāpana a puni ka honua.

5. Pehea e ʻike ai i ke Kesi ʻoiaʻiʻo?
E makaʻala i nā hoʻohālike i hana ʻia e ka mīkini! ʻEkolu mau hiʻohiʻona nui ʻo Kesi ʻoiaʻiʻo:
① ʻO ka hohonu o ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana: Ua hoʻokiʻekiʻe ʻia nā hiʻohiʻona, me nā ʻaoʻao i kālai ʻia.
② ʻAha māmā: E paʻa i luna—hōʻike ʻo Kesi ʻoiaʻiʻo i nā ʻāpana liʻiliʻi mai ka ʻenehana weft haki.
③ Hoʻāʻo kuni: ʻAni ke kilika maoli e like me ka lauoho puhi; ʻo ka lehu e hāʻule i ka lepo.